Domaine Hegarty-Chamans No 3

點(diǎn)擊次數(shù)：1663

The 2005 Minervois Cuvee No. 3 is overwhelmingly Carignan (an important conveyer of local character, in the opinion of this team), with under 20% Mourvedre and for Minervois, a remarkably minor dollop of Syrah. Fresh blackberry, sage, wood smoke, and smoked meat in the nose lead to a brightly fresh-berried, pungently herbal, seemingly chalk-infused palate impression. Tartness of fruit, salinity, and pungent sage oil make for a bracing finish. The whole effect here is a bit reduced (chemically speaking) and it will be best to decant the wine, but it offers a lot of satisfaction and might, like many 2005s, be passing through an awkward stage and worth holding for another year or two. Londoners John Hegarty and Philippa Crane are putting into action the old adage about starting with a small fortune – theirs having been made in advertising – but they are clearly dedicated heart and soul to their 50 acres sheltered in the foothills of the Montagne Noire, a property acquired and radically renovated in 2002. They are also committed to rendering wines that express their aesthetic, environmental and (biodynamic) viticultural ideals and a spirit of adventure, all symbolized for them by the black sheep on their label. Burgundy-trained Samuel Berger, their articulate cellar master since 2003, is similarly focused and experimental-minded. The vintages tasted have largely not yet been released to the U.S. market, hence the relative absence of suggested retails.Imported by Robert Kacher Selections, Washington, DC; tel. (202) 832-9083

The Hegarty-Chamans 2004 Minervois Cuvee No. 3 is entirely different in personality from the 2005, being largely Syrah (plus Carignan and Grenache). Fresh black fruits and resinous herbal accents in the nose lead to a juicy, satisfyingly ripe, subtly tart, and pungently herbal and peppery palate performance, accompanied by a generously-fruited, herb- and chalk-inflected finish. It seems ideal for drinking now, but might well keep nicely for another couple of years. The 2003 – reviewed in issue 173 – is even more interesting today than it was then. Londoners John Hegarty and Philippa Crane are putting into action the old adage about starting with a small fortune – theirs having been made in advertising – but they are clearly dedicated heart and soul to their 50 acres sheltered in the foothills of the Montagne Noire, a property acquired and radically renovated in 2002. They are also committed to rendering wines that express their aesthetic, environmental and (biodynamic) viticultural ideals and a spirit of adventure, all symbolized for them by the black sheep on their label. Burgundy-trained Samuel Berger, their articulate cellar master since 2003, is similarly focused and experimental-minded. The vintages tasted have largely not yet been released to the U.S. market, hence the relative absence of suggested retails.Imported by Robert Kacher Selections, Washington, DC; tel. (202) 832-9083

The 2003 No. 3 (tank-rendered Carignan and Syrah with a bit of Grenache) smells of black raspberry jam, mint chocolate, black tea, licorice, resin and herbs. I’m bound to mention a certain gaminess that some might find off-putting. Very sweetly fruited and slightly stewy on the palate and softly-textured, it finishes with jam and chocolate to the fore. John Hegarty and Philippa Crane made their fortunes in advertising, and now advertise their unorthodox approaches to winemaking with the black sheep on their label. The next thing you’ll notice is the absence of appellation (in fact, they’re in Minervois) and near invisibility of vintage, but instead just a number signifying the cuvee, of which I tasted the three reds of their first vintage (what a year to begin!). The wines are much less mystifying than all this sounds – and they’re damned delicious!Imported by Robert Kacher Selections, Washington, DC; tel. (202) 832-9083