Domaine Hegarty-Chamans No 2

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The Grenache-Mourvedre-Cinsault blend that is Hegarty-Chamans 2009 Minervois Cuvee No. 2 - in bottle for only a few weeks when I tasted it in April - smells of cinnamon-dusted, lily-and peony-garlanded, candied cherry. Sweet dark cherry, strong inner-mouth florality, and rich low tones of black fruits and beef broth inform a rich, multi-layered palate whose sumptuous sense of textural richness is reinforced by ample glycerin and 14.3% alcohol, without there being significant heat. Most of the Grenache here - including fruit from vines that were utilized for the estate's ultra cuvee Black Knight in 2007 - was raised in a large wooden fermentor and the rest of the components in tank. This impeccably-balanced beauty retains a wonderful sense of vibrancy even as it soothes, and its alluring spice and floral perfume were only amplified from a bottle that had been opened earlier in the day. I suspect it will be worth following for more than half a dozen years. Proprietors John Hegarty and Philippa Crane - along with their cellarmaster-vineyard manager Samuel Berger are turning out many impressive wines. But these are not getting any easier to keep track of than when I reported at length about this estate in issue 183. In fairness, the team here is conscientiously striving to assemble from a considerable array of raw materials those blends treated in those manners that will best showcase the potential of any given vintage. At the same time, they don't want to mislead their customers by utilizing the same label for wines that are quite different in conception, and where quality has proven inconsistent they almost unhesitatingly declassify. As a result, in addition to cuvees bearing the titles "No. 1" through "No. 3" - not all of which are bottled each vintage - there are increasingly many other cuvee designations, and that's not counting the complication that some wines do and others do not receive the Minervois appellation. Experience is tempering not just the cellar practices but also the mix of vines that this experimental-minded team biodynamically cultivates. When the property was purchased nine years ago it included ten hectares of Syrah, for instance, but all except three have been ripped up and replaced with other varieties, as the line between profound ripeness and over-ripeness with that grape in these sites proved both fine and elusive. Berger indicated that he was unlikely to essay a cuvee "No. 1" from 2010, because in his words, "while there was plenty of fruitiness, the phenolic maturation was not sufficiently advanced ? and the Syrah - especially the portion on schist - suffered drought stress, so that the maturation simply plateaued even though the potential alcohol rose. I can't explain," he adds, "why it is that there was less stress on our vineyards in the dry heat of 2009. But all of our varieties achieved excellent ripeness and fine tannins in that vintage," which he compares with 2007. Not all of the blends for 2009 had been determined, but the individual lots that I tasted over and beyond the terrific No. 1 and No. 2 cuvees left little doubt that whatever is bottled from 2009 at the lower end of this estate's price list will merit serious consumer attention. Incidentally, I had the opportunity to taste most of the finished wines here both freshly-opened and from bottles that had stood open for several hours.Importers include ABC Fine Wine and Spirits, Doral, FL; tel. (305) 470-0039 and Vintage Trading Inc., New York, NY; tel. (732) 928-7112

Raised in a small, new, conical wooden fermentor, but nearly identical in its proportions of Grenache, Mourvedre, and Cinsault to the corresponding 2009, Hegarty-Chamans' 2008 Minervois Cuvee No. 2 exhibits a superficial caramelization and resinous spiciness from its new wood, although this to some extent compliments the jam-like expression of black raspberry. Things follow along sweetly on the palate until the wine finishes, at which point a slight dry spot becomes evident that Berger and I agree illustrates the perils of putting Grenache into new wood, even when the barrel is not small. Fortunately, the woodiness was slightly toned-down and the fruit pumped-up in a bottle that had been opened for several hours. But I would plan to drink this over the next couple of years rather than hoping that it will be more harmonious or interesting thereafter. Proprietors John Hegarty and Philippa Crane - along with their cellarmaster-vineyard manager Samuel Berger are turning out many impressive wines. But these are not getting any easier to keep track of than when I reported at length about this estate in issue 183. In fairness, the team here is conscientiously striving to assemble from a considerable array of raw materials those blends treated in those manners that will best showcase the potential of any given vintage. At the same time, they don't want to mislead their customers by utilizing the same label for wines that are quite different in conception, and where quality has proven inconsistent they almost unhesitatingly declassify. As a result, in addition to cuvees bearing the titles "No. 1" through "No. 3" - not all of which are bottled each vintage - there are increasingly many other cuvee designations, and that's not counting the complication that some wines do and others do not receive the Minervois appellation. Experience is tempering not just the cellar practices but also the mix of vines that this experimental-minded team biodynamically cultivates. When the property was purchased nine years ago it included ten hectares of Syrah, for instance, but all except three have been ripped up and replaced with other varieties, as the line between profound ripeness and over-ripeness with that grape in these sites proved both fine and elusive. Berger indicated that he was unlikely to essay a cuvee "No. 1" from 2010, because in his words, "while there was plenty of fruitiness, the phenolic maturation was not sufficiently advanced ? and the Syrah - especially the portion on schist - suffered drought stress, so that the maturation simply plateaued even though the potential alcohol rose. I can't explain," he adds, "why it is that there was less stress on our vineyards in the dry heat of 2009. But all of our varieties achieved excellent ripeness and fine tannins in that vintage," which he compares with 2007. Not all of the blends for 2009 had been determined, but the individual lots that I tasted over and beyond the terrific No. 1 and No. 2 cuvees left little doubt that whatever is bottled from 2009 at the lower end of this estate's price list will merit serious consumer attention. Incidentally, I had the opportunity to taste most of the finished wines here both freshly-opened and from bottles that had stood open for several hours.Importers include ABC Fine Wine and Spirits, Doral, FL; tel. (305) 470-0039 and Vintage Trading Inc., New York, NY; tel. (732) 928-7112

The 2005 Minervois Cuvee No. 2 is almost entirely Grenache, and offers abundant, sappy cherry and strawberry tinged with licorice and white pepper. It combines a soothing texture and ample alcoholic body with invigorating freshness of fruit and tactile incursions of chalk and white pepper, teaming up for a long, satisfying finish. Irresistible now, I suspect this also has the stamina for at least 5-7 years further cellaring. Londoners John Hegarty and Philippa Crane are putting into action the old adage about starting with a small fortune – theirs having been made in advertising – but they are clearly dedicated heart and soul to their 50 acres sheltered in the foothills of the Montagne Noire, a property acquired and radically renovated in 2002. They are also committed to rendering wines that express their aesthetic, environmental and (biodynamic) viticultural ideals and a spirit of adventure, all symbolized for them by the black sheep on their label. Burgundy-trained Samuel Berger, their articulate cellar master since 2003, is similarly focused and experimental-minded. The vintages tasted have largely not yet been released to the U.S. market, hence the relative absence of suggested retails.Imported by Robert Kacher Selections, Washington, DC; tel. (202) 832-9083

Hegarty-Chaman’s 2004 Minervois Cuvee No. 2 is majority Grenache, with Syrah and Carignan. Fennel, sage, and marjoram are the prominent aromas, but sweetness of black raspberry emerges clearly on the palate, along with slightly gritty tannins which, as Berger acknowledges, are a function of this vintage’s dryness and extremely low yields. An unusually tart berry character, bitter herbal licorice and wormwood notes, and hints of chalk and pepper make for a striking finish. True, a part of this wine wants to display its richness and is a bit awkwardly imposed-upon by tannin and acidity. Nevertheless, I find the resulting dynamic fascinating, and the flavors here are more complex than in the more harmonious 2005. I would not be at all afraid to follow this excellent value for another couple of years. Note that the 2003 vintage of this cuvee – tasting delicious now – and the No. 1, both reviewed in issue 173, were in fact also granted Minervois appellation, but I had not attended to the finished labels at the time I tasted them, and so omitted the appellation. Londoners John Hegarty and Philippa Crane are putting into action the old adage about starting with a small fortune – theirs having been made in advertising – but they are clearly dedicated heart and soul to their 50 acres sheltered in the foothills of the Montagne Noire, a property acquired and radically renovated in 2002. They are also committed to rendering wines that express their aesthetic, environmental and (biodynamic) viticultural ideals and a spirit of adventure, all symbolized for them by the black sheep on their label. Burgundy-trained Samuel Berger, their articulate cellar master since 2003, is similarly focused and experimental-minded. The vintages tasted have largely not yet been released to the U.S. market, hence the relative absence of suggested retails.Imported by Robert Kacher Selections, Washington, DC; tel. (202) 832-9083

The Grenache-based (with 25% Syrah and 10% Cinsault), foudre-matured 2003 No. 2 catapults the taster into a very different orbit. Tea and black raspberry and blueberry preserves in the nose signal the liqueur-like sweetness and richness on the palate. Along with amazing sheer richness and opulence, there is striking purity of fruit here and enough freshness to keep it from becoming a cloying, jam-on-toast caricature. John Hegarty and Philippa Crane made their fortunes in advertising, and now advertise their unorthodox approaches to winemaking with the black sheep on their label. The next thing you’ll notice is the absence of appellation (in fact, they’re in Minervois) and near invisibility of vintage, but instead just a number signifying the cuvee, of which I tasted the three reds of their first vintage (what a year to begin!). The wines are much less mystifying than all this sounds – and they’re damned delicious!Imported by Robert Kacher Selections, Washington, DC; tel. (202) 832-9083