Lanolin and resin from barrel are prominent in the nose of Amiot's 2007 Saint-Aubin En Remilly – just as in a number of wines in this collection – but there are invigoratingly citric, saline, and savory sides to this wine that come out on a bright, attractively (not austerely) lean palate, and deep toasted nut notes – albeit along with notes of toasted oak – in the considerable finish. This will again be worth re-visiting in 2010 to see how it has dealt with its load of wood and assess its possible future. Thierry Amiot was one of a number of growers who admitted to me that their choice of starting date for the 2007 Chardonnay harvest was inevitably influenced by the presence of a crew who had just finished bringing in a ridiculously early crop of Pinot Noir, and that perhaps in the first days this picking might have been a bit too early for optimal Chardonnay flavor. Still, better that than any botrytis: Amiot’s 2007s are far more impressive than had been his collection of 2006s, which suffered occasional diffuse, volatile, or rough patches, and were really only convincing in the upper-echelons. The 30-50% new wood used here was once again evident, as are the results of batonnage (omitted in 2006). Finished alcohol levels this year do not exceed 13.5%, which is lower than in other recent Amiot vintages. As usual, village wines were bottled at one year and premier crus along with the reds, after 16 months. Importer; Kermit Lynch Wine Merchants, Berkeley, CA; tel (510) 524-1524

The rich, light to medium-bodied 2002 Saint-Aubin En Remilly offers syrupy mineral aromas as well as flavors. It exhibits excellent depth, a fleshy, fruit-filled, prolonged character, and impressive balance. Drink it over the next 4 years.