Bottled just three weeks prior to my visit, the 2017 Crozes Hermitage Cuvee Alberic Bouvet didn't seem to be suffering any ill effects. It's a bit toasty (this cuvée sees about 20% new oak) relative to the Papillon bottling, but it's deeper, richer and more velvety. Baking spices accent blackberry and cassis flavors in this plush, medium to full-bodied effort.

As to the reds, the 2015 Crozes Hermitage Alberic Bouvet from Gilles Robin is a wonderfully fruity, forward, sexy Syrah that has tons of ripe wild strawberry and black raspberry notes intermixed with hints of graphite and sweaty saddle leather. This medium to full-bodied, rounded, beautifully textured effort is ideal for drinking in its first 7-8 years of life.

Leading off the 2014s, the charming, medium-bodied, juicy 2014 Crozes Hermitage Alberic Bouvet gives up solid notes of raspberries, peppery herbs, hints of violets and flowers in its easy, supple, nicely fruited profile. Drink it over the coming 4-5 years.

Garnet in hue and fading to brick at the rim, the 2007 Crozes Hermitage Cuvee Alberic Bouvet is a bit past its peak. Cedar and tobacco notes blend easily into leather and soy. It's silky and medium-bodied, but bottles should have been consumed 4-5 years ago.