Unwinding in the glass with aromas of cherries, rich berries, coniferous forest floor and violets, the 2020 Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru Les Cras is full-bodied, concentrated and muscular, with broad shoulders and huge depth at the core, its sweet core of fruit framed by powdery but present tannins. Once again, patience will be required, so readers looking for immediate gratification should look elsewhere in the range.

The 2019 Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru Les Cras is similarly compelling, soaring from the glass with aromas of red berries, exotic spices, orange rind, musk and rose petals. Medium to full-bodied, concentrated and tightly wound, with a deep and vibrant core of fruit that's framed by fine, powdery tannins, it concludes with a long, penetrating and intensely mineral finish. This is a magical Chambolle-Musigny worth a special effort to seek out.

The 2018 Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru Les Cras may well prove to be the highpoint of a magical portfolio chez Barthod, and it will be worth a special effort to seek out. Unwinding in the glass with scents of dark berries, raspberries, exotic spices, sweet soil tones and peonies, it's medium to full-bodied, ample and velvety, with a textural attack that segues into a deep and layered mid-palate, underpinned by bright acids and ripe tannins, before concluding with a long, perfumed and exquisitely mineral finish.

The 2017 Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru Les Cras unfurls in the glass with a youthfully reticent bouquet of raspberries, cherries, rose petal and orange rind. On the palate, the wine is medium to full-bodied, satiny-textured and multidimensional, with stunning depth and concentration at the core, mouthwatering acids and a searingly intense, mineral finish. This is a stunning Cras from a masterful winemaker at the peak of her powers.

The 2016 Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru Les Cras was severely affected by the frost, with 70% less production than normal, or just six barrels this year. It has a tightly wound bouquet with dark berry fruit, wild strawberry, mulberry and light graphite scents that come through with aeration. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannin, impressive density and energy, a little confit-like towards the finish that has more spiciness than the Véroilles or Les Fuées. Excellent, maybe one of the longer-term Chambolles from the domaine.