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The Mochel 2004 Gewurztraminer Altenberg de Bergbieten offers smoke, musk, celery salt, pea tendril, and rose petal aromatics. Satisfyingly juicy in a way this variety often isn’t, as well as clear and balanced in its virtual dryness (where its 2005 counterpart displayed considerable superficial sweetness) this preserves lovely inner-mouth rose petal character and cooling suggestions of chalk and mint in the finish.Frederic and son Guillaume Mochel clearly work as an excellent team, farming almost exclusively acreage in the steep chalky slopes of Bergbieten’s Altenberg, but bottling only their top cuvees as vineyard-designated “Grand Crus.”A Thomas Calder Selection (various importers), Paris; fax 011-33-1-46-45-15-29.