From vines in Traenheim, the Mochel 2005 Sylvaner demonstrates how interestingly and deliciously this supposedly humble variety can perform, as well as the degree to which the chalky soils in northern Alsace can promote sufficient acid retention. Pungent suggestions of fresh lemon and pear skin on the nose lead to a somewhat mealy-textured but bright and juicy palate and a finish both chalky, subtly bitter, and far more vivacious and refreshing than that of the vast majority of Sylvaner regardless of country of origin. Frederic and son Guillaume Mochel clearly work as an excellent team, farming almost exclusively acreage in the steep chalky slopes of Bergbieten’s Altenberg, but bottling only their top cuvees as vineyard-designated “Grand Crus.”A Thomas Calder Selection (various importers), Paris; fax 011-33-1-46-45-15-29.