Aromas of clear honey, blanched almonds and pear mingle with hints of citrus blossom and orange oil, introducing the 2018 Montrachet Grand Cru, a full-bodied, elegantly textural wine that's supple and enveloping, with lovely depth and dimension at the core, underpinned by lively acids. Long and perfumed, this is an elegant, expressive Montrachet from Fontaine-Gagnard.

From a parcel that neighbors Domaine Leflaive's the 2017 Montrachet Grand Cru wafts from the glass with notes of white flowers, Meyer lemon, mandarin oil, pastry cream and pear. On the palate, it's full-bodied, satiny textured and multidimensional, more enveloping but less dense than the Batard, while more controlled and delineated than the Criots. Succulent and long, it's a superb Montrachet that I would have loved to spend more time with.

There are just 1? barrels of the 2013 Montrachet this year. It has an austere bouquet just like the Batard-Montrachet, but then opens gloriously with marine scents – shucked oyster shells, cockles and seaweed permeating the citrus fruit. The palate is very well balanced with a keen line acidity, intense citrus peel intermingling with nectarine and orange rind. It fans out wonderfully on the dense, mineral-laden finish – one of the best Montrachet’s of the vintage.

Tasted blind, the 2011 Montrachet Grand Cru from Domaine Fontaine-Gagnard was demonstrating a small reduction on the nose although nothing that will not dissipate with time in bottle or a good rough decant. There is certainly fine mineral tension here, more so than Dominique Lafon's 2011 Montrachet that we also poured blind in the same flight. The palate is lively and energetic with a fine bead of acidity. It is nicely poised with a hint of nutmeg and walnut towards the vibrant and classy finish. This is showing impressively and it comes highly recommended—if you can locate a bottle of course. Tasted October 2016.

A huge burst of fruit hits the palate as the 2010 Montrachet shows off its irrepressible personality. The Montrachet simply won’t be denied. And why should it? The 2010 is a marvelous wine endowed with tropical fruit, butter, nectarines, honey and spices, all of which continue to flesh out beautifully on the wine’s big, broad-shouldered frame. I have a slight preference for the Batard here, but the Montrachet is also striking in its purity and beauty. The only open question is whether the wine will acquire finesse in bottle, or if it will remain big and bombastic. I look forward to finding out. Anticipated maturity: 2016+. I was deeply impressed with the wines I tasted at Fontaine-Gagnard. The 2010s are rich, deep and racy, but also show tremendous transparency with regards to site and have a little more polish than is customary. Celine Fontaine told me she was very surprised by the concentration of the wines given the poor weather during the summer, but that, ultimately, it was the small size of the berries that played a big role in giving the wines their personalities. The harvest started on September 21. All of the 2010s were bottled in August 2011. Although I did not taste any of the reds, Fontaine also told me a number of the estate’s Pinot vineyards were heavily affected by the December 2009 frost and required replanting. Importers: Polaner Selections, Mt. Kisco, NY; tel. (914) 244-0404, Jeffrey Wellburn Selections, Van Nuys, CA; tel. (818) 780-4446