The Gonnet brothers run this reliable estate that turns out textbook Chateauneuf du Papes. The 1996 Chateauneuf du Pape Cuvee Classique displays a provocative, somewhat controversial nose of crushed olives, iodine, green peppers, and spice. It is a medium ruby-colored, aromatic wine, with medium body, soft, round, peppery flavors, and a low acid, fruity finish. I would opt for drinking this forward, intensely spicy wine over the next 4-5 years. Importers: William Grant & Sons, Edison, NJ; tel. (908) 225-9000, and a Christopher Cannan Selection, Europvin USA, Watertown, MA; tel. (617) 924-7620

The Gonnet brothers run this reliable estate that turns out textbook Chateauneuf du Papes. The 1995 Chateauneuf du Pape Cuvee Classique offers a dark, plum/purple color. It shares with the 1996 a garrigue (Provencal herbs), spice box, tangy iodine, salty, peppery character, in addition to sweeter, richer fruit, and more glycerin. The 1995 also finishes with more alcoholic clout and extract. It is a forward, sexy style of Provencal red wine to drink over the next 7-8 years. Importers: William Grant & Sons, Edison, NJ; tel. (908) 225-9000, and a Christopher Cannan Selection, Europvin USA, Watertown, MA; tel. (617) 924-7620