The 2012 Ladoix Vieilles Vignes is much more closed compared to the Aloxe-Corton ’12 with muted blackberry and briar scents. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannins and a fine line of acidity that lends it a little more tension and focus than the Aloxe-Corton, finishing with some aplomb. This is a capable Ladoix village that will give pleasure over the next 5 to 7 years. Drink now-2020. Edmond Cornu handed the reins of his domaine to his son Pierre some years ago, although Edmond remains in an advisory role and Pierre’s cousin has also joined. They farm around 15 hectares of vineyard, and their fruit is destemmed before being fermented in stainless steel and raised in oak for 14 to 18 months. Having tasted their wines often in the UK, I knew what to expect. While they rarely reach the heights of growers with more propitious holdings, these are well-crafted, unassuming, balanced and terroir-specific wines imbued with plenty of character. Generally, they are best consumed in their youth in order to savor their freshness and vitality. Importer: A Neal Rosenthal Selection; www.madrose.com; tel. (518) 207-9100. Also available through McKinley Vintners (UK)