Consumers lucky enough to score some of Colombier's 2018 Hermitage Blanc (there is only one demi-muid and one pièce) can have fun comparing it to the superlative 2016. Honeyed pineapple and vanilla aromas nearly fill the room, while the full-bodied palate is equally voluminous. Rich, silky and long, nicely supported by subtle oak, it should drink well on release, in a decade's time, and last up to two decades (or more).

Colombier's 2017 Hermitage Blanc comes from the lieu-dit of Maison Blanche and includes a bit of Roussanne. Already starting to close down, I wouldn't touch it until at least 2026. For now, it's full-bodied and rich but also racy, with pink grapefruit flavors that show hints of richer burnt orange and honey on the long finish. If you absolutely must try it soon, try giving it some time in a decanter to loosen up.

I was blown away by the potential of the 2016 Hermitage Blanc. All barrel-fermented Marsanne from the lieux-dits of Les Beaumes and Les Diognières, it takes notes of crushed stone and offsets them with hints of honeyed melon, then provides energy and length with citrus zest and brine. Delicious now, expect it to close down shortly after release but then gradually open and add truffled notes as it ages up to 20 years from the vintage.

The 2014 Hermitage Blanc was still in barrel at the time of my tastings. Pineapple, peach, buttered citrus, and brioche aromas and flavors all emerge from this medium to full-bodied, nicely textured, yet distinctly fresh white. The acidity is slightly elevated here, but I suspect it will come together nicely once in bottle.

Also tasted out of barrel, the 2013 Hermitage Blanc has lots of sweet oak in its bitter citrus, flower oil, caramel and honeyed fruit-driven bouquet. It has good acidity, beautiful mid-palate depth and the house richness and texture. It's blockbuster white that will benefit from a year in bottle and evolve gracefully.