The exquisite Hermitage is very peppery with notes of hickory barbecue smoke, blackberries, tar, and white chocolate in both its aromas and flavors. Quite powerful, it needs 2-4 years of cellaring, but should easily keep for 20 years. Importer: Kysela Pere et Fils, Winchester, VA; tel. (540) 722-9228

Only 80 cases were made of the 1994 Unfiltered Hermitage. Viale, a long-time supplier of grapes to Guigal, owns a tiny 3-acre parcel of 55-year old vines in the section of Hermitage Hill known as Beaumes. This beautiful wine possesses an opaque purple color, and a sweet, fragrant nose of pure cassis, black-raspberries, smoke, and minerals. Already surprisingly forward and delicious, this full-bodied, chewy, rich Hermitage must have some tannin lurking behind the fruit, glycerin, and alcohol. A big, surprisingly supple wine, it will exhibit more structure as it ages over the next 10-15+ years. Winemaker Florent Viale came to my attention because of the fine 1993s he produced, a vintage where some of the best northern Rhone wine producers had difficulties. Unfortunately, only microscopic quantities of the Domaine du Colombier offerings are available, but they are well-worth a search of the marketplace. Kysela Pere et Fils, 130 Windy Hill Lane, Suite W5-12/12A, Winchester, VA 22602; telephone (540) 722-9228 and fax (540) 722-9258

Unfortunately, only 40 cases of this special unfiltered bottling were made for the American importer. Producer Florent Viale owns approximately three acres of 55-year old vines in the lieux-dit on Hermitage hill called Baume. In what was a disastrous vintage for this appellation (only two other noteworthy 1993 Hermitages were produced, Chapoutier's Pavillon and that of J. L. Chave), this 1993 stands out for its fine color saturation, intensity, body, and concentration. The wine's opaque black ruby color is followed by an intense, fragrant nose of sweet Syrah fruit (smoke, animal, and cassis). Dense and highly extracted, with sweet tannin and stunning richness and length, this knock-out Hermitage is the early candidate for the appellation's finest wine of the vintage! Drink it over the next 20+ years. Importer: Kysela Pere et Fils, Winchester, VA; tel (703) 888-7939