Might the terrific 2017 Cairanne la Boutine even exceed the two past vintages of this standout? From Grenache vines planted in 1947, this tank-aged beauty offers subtle notes of dried spices layered over a base of ripe cherries. Full-bodied, supple and creamy, it finishes plush, elegant and long. It's wonderfully concentrated yet very drinkable at the same time.

Full-bodied, rich and supple, the 2016 Cairanne la Boutine is made from Grenache planted in 1947. It aged nine months in concrete prior to bottling. It combines hints of plummy fruit with brighter notes of raspberries, hints of garrigue and cola for notable complexity, then adds a long, plush finish.

This was well reviewed just last year, but I liked it so much I wanted to give it even more positive ink. The 2015 Cairanne la Boutine is 100% Grenache from vines planted in 1947 by proprietor Gilles Ferran's grandfather. Bright, fresh and vibrant, with layers of red and black berries, hints of clove and other spices, it's nearly full-bodied but carries that weight effortlessly into a lengthy finish that's simultaneously crisp (acids) and silky (tannins).

Also brilliant, especially in the vintage, the 2014 Cairanne Boutine C?tes du Rh?ne Village is about as sexy, upfront and hedonistic as it gets in 2014. Made from 100% Grenache and aged in concrete tanks, it’s loaded with notions of strawberries, garrigue, spice and flowers, which give way to a medium to full-bodied, layered 2014 that has no hard edges and plenty of fruit. While the Heritage 1924 needs a year to let the tannin calm down, this is ready to go.

Offering up more fruit, spring flowers, licorice and sappy underbrush, the 2012 Cairanne La Boutine comes from staggeringly low yields (10 hectoliter per hectare) and is made from 100% Grenache that’s aged all in concrete tank. It has full-bodied depth and richness, superb mid-palate concentration and a decadent, hedonistic style that’s perfect for drinking over the coming 4-5 years.