The 2010 Clos de Vougeot is gorgeous. It boasts impeccable textural finesse in its dark red cherries, flowers, mint and licorice. I especially like its energy. This is another wine that doesn’t seem to be showing all of its cards at present. The fruit is so silky and fleshy, there is virtually no perception of tannin or Vougeot angularity. Sweet floral and minty notes add brightness and complexity on the finish. Anticipated maturity: 2020-2030. Jerome Chezeaux took over his family’s estate in 1994. The winery was originally founded in 1938, but only began bottling in the late 1960s. The 2010 harvest started on September 25 and lasted six days. The wines saw about 21 days of cuvaison (including 4-5 days cold soak) and were then aged in oak, with a fairly low amount of new wood, as is typical here. Yields were down 40% on average. The 2010s are on average excellent. The entry-level wines are terrific, both on absolute and relative terms. A number of the top 1er Crus and the Clos de Vougeot struck me as a bit closed, which is not surprising given the personality of the year. I will not be surprised if some of the top 2010s are even more impressive from bottle.Importer: Rosenthal Wine Merchant, Pine Plains, NY; tel. (800) 910-1990

The 2009 Clos de Vougeot is another superb effort. It shows terrific persistence, plenty of warm, radiant fruit and no hard edges, something that is quite unusual for wines from this widely varied site. This supple, stylish Clos de Vougeot is pure pleasure. Anticipated maturity: 2019-2039. Jerome Chezeaux farms a total of 11.2 hectares of vineyards, of which 6.6 are estate owned. The fruit is 100% destemmed. Chezeaux favors fairly lengthy macerations. New oak levels are on the low side. As is the case at many estates, the 2009s have a slight upper hand in many of the entry and mid-level wines, while at the high end the 2008s are superb. Either way, these are some of the most beautiful, classically built wines I tasted on my trip. Patience is required, though, as these are sturdy wines that need bottle age.Importer: Rosenthal Wine Merchant, Pine Plains, NY; tel. (800) 910-1990

The 2008 Clos de Vougeot reveals notable intensity and power in its rich, textured fruit. There is plenty of structural heft as well, but the tannins are beautifully balanced by the fruit. This is a graceful, harmonious, totally satisfying wine. Anticipated maturity: 2024-2039. Jerome Chezeaux farms a total of 11.2 hectares of vineyards, of which 6.6 are estate owned. The fruit is 100% destemmed. Chezeaux favors fairly lengthy macerations. New oak levels are on the low side. As is the case at many estates, the 2009s have a slight upper hand in many of the entry and mid-level wines, while at the high end the 2008s are superb. Either way, these are some of the most beautiful, classically built wines I tasted on my trip. Patience is required, though, as these are sturdy wines that need bottle age.Importer: Rosenthal Wine Merchant, Pine Plains, NY; tel. (800) 910-1990

A tiny parcel informs Chezeaux’s 2005 Clos Vougeot, which offers interesting aromas of lightly-cooked black cherry, game, and pungent wood smoke and high-toned herbs. A savory, meaty, palate full of fruit is nevertheless hostage (at least temporarily) to the wine’s substantial tannin. The finish , while impressively long, is rather somber and slightly drying, perhaps in part under the influence of recent bottling. Flirting with 14% alcohol, it also betrays a touch of heat.Jerome Chezeaux had just bottled (albeit without filtration) when I visited, so allowances should be made for the possibility that the wines were suffering from this.Also recommended: 2005 Bourgogne (84), 2005 Vosne-Romanee (85+?), 2005 Nuits-St.-Georges (86+?), 2005 Nuits-St.-Georges Les Vaucrains (?).Importer: Rosenthal Wine Merchant, Pine Plains, NY; tel. (800) 910-1990.