Mortet's 2021 Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru opens in the glass with aromas of red berries, cherries, rose petals, spices and smoke. Medium to full-bodied, pure and precise, it's an elegant, vibrant wine, concluding with a long, sapid finish.

The fireworks continue with the 2020 Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru, a striking wine that unfurls in the glass with aromas of pomegranate and red cherries mingled with sweet spices, rose petals and blood orange. Full-bodied, layered and multidimensional, it's deep and concentrated, with lively acids, melting tannins and a long, perfumed finish.

The 2019 Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru wafts from the glass with aromas of raspberries, plums and pomegranate, mingled with hints of peonies, warm spices, orange rind and coniferous forest floor. Full-bodied, ample and perfumed, it's supple and enveloping, with a fleshy core of fruit, melting tannins and a long, saline, rose-inflected finish.

Wafting from the glass with a beautiful bouquet of cherries, raspberries, cinnamon and potpourri, Mortet's 2018 Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru is medium to full-bodied, elegant and beautifully complete, its velvety attack segueing into a lively and concentrated mid-palate, concluding with a long and perfumed finish. I suspect it will be even better after another winter in barrel.

From a parcel with white soils, the 2017 Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru is very pretty, wafting from the glass with notes of rose petal, blood orange, wild berries and savory bass notes. On the palate, it's medium to full-bodied, satiny and fine-boned, with chalky structuring tannins, juicy acids and a vibrant core of fruit. The style here is exquisite, and if Mortet can coax a little more depth and concentration from these vines in future vintages while retaining its elegant profile, he will soon number among this grand cru's greatest exponents.