A candidate for the wine of the vintage, the 2006 Chateauneuf du Pape Reserve exhibits an opaque purple color, peppery, spicy, earthy notes, full-bodied intensity, and outstanding concentration, purity, and length. It is another sensational wine, but finding a few bottles will be difficult given the microscopic production. It should drink nicely for 20+ years, atypically long for a 2006. Always one of my favorite Chateauneuf du Pape estates to visit, proprietor Jean-Paul Dauman has made Domaine de la Vieille Julienne a brilliant reference point for this appellation. These are traditionally made, extraordinarily concentrated Chateauneuf du Papes created from old vine, biodynamically farmed sites and made from minuscule yields, hands off, no SO2 during vinification, and aged in neutral tanks or old wood. I thought the 2007s, as strong as they were, were matched by what this estate achieved in 2006. This is one of a handful of vineyards where the 2006s do not take a back seat to what is essentially the greatest vintage of my lifetime in the southern Rh?ne, I was surprised to learn that there will be no 2007 Chateauneuf du Pape Reserve, a wine that comes from 103-year-old Grenache vines planted in pure sand that is aged in old foudres and tanks. Jean-Paul told me there was really no difference in the character of that wine when compared to the wines from their other parcels, so they felt a separate cuvee was not merited.A Christopher Cannan Selection, various American importers, including Michael Skurnik, Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300 and Diamond Wine Merchant, Oakland, CA; tel. (510) 567–9897

The 2005 Reserve, which comes from ancient 101-year-old Grenache vines planted in pure sand, has an inky/purple color as well, an extraordinary nose of graphite (even though there is no new oak used, only ancient foudres), fabulous purity of blackberry, cherry, and cassis fruit with hints of licorice, smoke, and a touch of resin and spice. Still uncertain about the finalized name because this is the 100th anniversary of the estate, the “Reserve” could have some other name such as “Hommage.” However, it will be the only other Chateauneuf du Pape other than the bottling just reviewed. This is a fabulous wine that certainly will be one of the monuments of the vintage, and a wine capable of lasting 25-35 years. It will also require some patience from purchasers – needing 4-5 years of bottle age. This estate in the very northern sector of Chateauneuf du Pape celebrated its 100th anniversary in 2005, but the extraordinary wines have only really come with the emergence of Jean-Paul Daumen as a seasoned and competent producer, over the last seven to eight years. He is now one of the truly stunning producers in all of France and, somewhat unusual for Chateauneuf du Pape, he doesn’t make any white Chateauneuf du Pape.Importer: A Christopher Cannan Selection, various American importers including Michael Skurnik, Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300 and Diamond Wine Merchants, Oakland, CA; tel. (510) 567-9897