This year, my favorite of the four 2019s from this fine estate is the 2019 Chateauneuf du Pape Les Hautes Brusquieres Cuvee Speciale, which emerges from a single parcel of galets roulés planted to a 60-40 mix of Grenache and Syrah. Partially destemmed, it reveals some herbal, stemmy elements on the nose, giving a sense of freshness to the super-ripe black cherry fruit, plus ephemeral notions of tea leaves and rose petals. Full-bodied, silky and concentrated, this wine is long and complex on the finish, with hints of dark chocolate, plum, and red berries. Tasted twice (once blind), with consistent notes.

The 2017 Chateauneuf du Pape Les Hautes Brusquieres Cuvee Speciale combines concentration with finesse and complexity in a way rarely seen in such an expansive, full-bodied wine (16% alcohol on the label). Notes of red raspberries and maraschino cherries lead the way, but they're supplemented by hints of garrigue, tea, roses and dried spices in this 60-40 blend of Grenache and Syrah. Mouthfilling and silky, it shows terrific length and hides the warmth that often plagues dry wines of this magnitude.

A prodigious effort, the 2016 Chateauneuf du Pape Les Hautes Brusquieres Cuvee Speciale was yet to be bottled during my June visit. It offers up sweet floral aromas, hints of thyme and rosemary and bold cherry fruit. Full-bodied and creamy-velvety in texture, it's a hugely seductive mouthful of wine that I found difficult to spit. If it emerges from the bottling process looking like this, buyers will have huge smiles on their faces.

The 2010 vintage is easily the greatest vintage for this estate to date. The 2010 Chateauneuf du Pape les Hautes Brusquières Cuvee Speciale is a total blockbuster that sports an inky purple color as well as heavenly notes of dark fruits, roasted herbs, licorice, cured meats and garrigue. Unctuous, ripe, full-bodied, massively concentrated and yet impeccably balanced, it will have 20-25 years of overall longevity.