The fruit-forward 2009 Cotes du Rhone offers lots of kirsch, berry, olive and herb characteristics in its medium-bodied, very drinkable personality. Philippe Bravay continues to turn out sensational wines at his tiny, artisanal estate of just under 14 acres. His greatest vintage to date was 2007, but he has done an exemplary job in both 2008 and 2009. Bravay also turns out two top Cotes du Rhones from his holdings just outside the appellation. Importer: Peter Weygandt, Weygandt-Metzler, Unionville, PA; tel. (610) 486-0800

The 2004 Cotes du Rhone offers delicious, plump, cherry and herbal notes, attractive, medium- bodied texture, soft tannin, and a lush finish. Importer: Peter Weygandt, Weygandt-Metzler, Unionville, PA; tel. (610) 486-0800

The 2003 Cotes du Rhone is a sleeper, and I’m not sure it is not outstanding. It needs to be drunk over the next several years, but the gorgeous nose of melted licorice, creme de cassis, pepper, and incense is followed by a full-bodied, ripe heady wine with superb concentration and no hard edges. It is irresistible. Philippe Bravay came to my attention a number of years ago, and he is one of the most serious of the young generation of vignerons in Chateauneuf du Pape. His Cotes du Rhones are real sleeper selections, and not that far off the mark of his brilliant Chateauneuf du Pape . Both his 2003 and 2004 vintages have provided beautiful wines that frugal consumers should be checking out. These are brilliant wines. Importer: Peter Weygandt, Weygandt-Metzler, Unionville, PA; tel. (610) 486-0800

The 1998 Cotes du Rhone, made from 80% Grenache, 15% Syrah, and 5% Cinsault, from vines planted between 1933 and 1946, is a beautiful example of how much flavor, character, and complexity can be packed into a Cotes du Rhone. A deep ruby/purple color is accompanied by a sweet nose of black fruits, pepper, licorice, seaweed, and spice. Ripe, with dense, jammy black cherry fruit, smoke, earth, and herbs, it is a rich, medium to full-bodied, deep effort. Tannin in the finish suggests this is a Cotes du Rhone that will hold up for 8-10 years. Importers: Alain Junguenet, Wines of France, Mountainside, NJ; tel. (908) 654-6173, and Peter Weygandt, Weygandt-Metzler, Unionville, PA; tel (610) 486-0800