Charred and smoky, the 2020 Chateauneuf du Pape Renaissance—a 60-40 blend of Grenache and Mourvèdre maturing in barriques (one-fourth new)—is showing entirely too much oak at the moment, but there's some decent black raspberry fruit, which will hopefully emerge with further élevage. Medium to full-bodied, it's soft and plush, with swirls of vanilla and mocha on the finish.

A 60-40 blend of Grenache and Mourvèdre aged in a combination of demi-muids and new barriques, the 2019 Chateauneuf du Pape Renaissance shows plenty of smoky, toasty nuances laid over the top of roasted cherries. Full-bodied, rich and velvety in texture, it finishes long, with overtones of mocha lingering on the finish. It's oaky now, but it should improve with short-term cellaring. Tasted twice (once blind), with consistent notes.

The 2018 Chateauneuf du Pape Renaissance looks like another fine example of this cuvée, which is typically a blend of 60% Grenache and 40% Mourvèdre. Hints of plum and black cherries accent raspberries on the nose of this full-bodied, velvety-textured and lush wine.

A 60-40 blend of Grenache (from 110-year-old vines) and Mourvèdre (from 55-year-old vines), aged in demi-muids and barriques, the 2017 Chateauneuf du Pape Renaissance shows more cedar and vanilla overtones than I personally prefer, with those elements riding over the top of delicate cherry and raspberry fruit and flattening out any garrigue and spice subtleties. Don't get me wrong—it's clearly a fine wine, and will clearly have many fans for its ample weight, velvety plushness and deliciously hedonistic style. I just wish it showed more vineyard-derived complexity instead of oak. Perhaps that will emerge with time.

A blend of 60% Grenache (from 110-year-old vines) and 40% Mourvèdre (from 50-year-old vines), the 2016 Chateauneuf du Pape Cuvee Renaissance features hints of cedar and baking spices (a portion of the Mourvèdre was aged in new oak). It's full-bodied, supple and creamy in texture, with a long, cola-tinged and slightly warm finish. It should drink well for at least a decade.