Daniel Bouland Chiroubles, Beaujolais, France

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Bouland’s 2010 Chiroubles is delightfully-scented with orange blossom and fresh red raspberry; luscious yet bright; infused with saliva-inducing salinity; and finishes with lift and a sappy persistence that was enhanced in the freshly-opened bottle versus that open overnight. Smoky black tea and crushed stone notes were on the other hand enhanced in the latter bottle. This won’t make one forget the seductively-textured 2009, but represents another fine performance that is worth following for several more years. Daniel Bouland achieved a 2010 crop similar in size to that of 2009, and said that effectively combating mildew was his toughest 2010 challenge. But somehow, it seems, this grower renders wines if anything more dynamic and ultimately more expressive in challenging vintages. Chiroubles was harvested at just under 12% potential alcohol and lightly-chaptalized; the other crus at 12.5-13% and unadjusted. Bouland owned-up to high levels of malic acid but reported problem-free lactic transformation. I had the opportunity to compare side-by-side freshly opened bottles of each wine with ones that had been open overnight and have commented on some of the differences in the course of my notes. (For further detail on this grower’s properties, consult my tasting notes in issue 190.)Importer: Weygandt-Metzler, Unionville, PA; tel. (610) 486-0800

Bouland’s 2009 Chiroubles – raised in tank, and grown not far from his winery in Corcelette, a tiny hamlet at the northwestern edge of the Morgon appellation – evinces ripe red and black raspberry, musky peony perfume, and a decided smokiness. Wonderfully plush and rich, it retains infectious brightness in a long finish that also features hints of coriander and toasted pecan. Uncannily well-balanced and seamless for its 14.2% alcohol, I suspect this will perform well for at least 2-3 years, though I would personally favor enjoying it in the flower of its youthful perfume and fruit. It’s clear by now that Daniel Bouland is one of Beaujolais’s major as well as most consistent talents, and it is encouraging to be witnessing the expansion of his domaine (now ten hectares). Most of Bouland’s vines are old, and his young parcels have been planted with selections massales from old vineyards. All of the 2009 cuvees – based on fruit not harvested before late in the first week in September and displaying deep, healthy color – came in at just over 14% alcohol, but none showed ill-effects. A couple of lots of Morgon were so late to go through malo that they were still gaseous when I visited in April, but Bouland’s four cuvees destined for the U.S. had just been bottled, from which they also appeared not to have suffered.Importer: Weygandt-Metzler, Unionville, PA; tel. (610) 486-0800