Daniel Bouland Cote de Brouilly Cuvee Melanie, Beaujolais, France

點(diǎn)擊次數(shù)：3100

From a parcel adjacent to the core vineyard of Chateau Thivin, Bouland’s barrel-matured 2010 Cote de Brouilly Cuvee Melanie displays juicy, tart-edged, cardamom- and cinnamon-tinged Maine blueberry wreathed alluringly in wisteria and finishing with notes of iodine and saliva-inducing salinity. Sleek, palpably dense, and pure-fruited, this delectable, charming Cote de Brouilly surprised me a bit for its absence of stony mineral expression as well as for the fact that a bottle – albeit merely one particular bottle – open overnight was less satisfying or mineral than one freshly-opened. I would however anticipate at least several years of pleasure. Daniel Bouland achieved a 2010 crop similar in size to that of 2009, and said that effectively combating mildew was his toughest 2010 challenge. But somehow, it seems, this grower renders wines if anything more dynamic and ultimately more expressive in challenging vintages. Chiroubles was harvested at just under 12% potential alcohol and lightly-chaptalized; the other crus at 12.5-13% and unadjusted. Bouland owned-up to high levels of malic acid but reported problem-free lactic transformation. I had the opportunity to compare side-by-side freshly opened bottles of each wine with ones that had been open overnight and have commented on some of the differences in the course of my notes. (For further detail on this grower’s properties, consult my tasting notes in issue 190.)Importer: Weygandt-Metzler, Unionville, PA; tel. (610) 486-0800

From a parcel adjacent to the core vineyard of Chateau Thivin that he acquired from his in-laws, Bouland’s barrel-matured 2009 Cote de Brouilly Cuvee Melanie features an abundance of appellation-typical blueberry fruit (here the tiny Maine variety) seemingly mingled with crushed stone. Resin, cocoa powder, and maple syrup add to the soothing, mouth-coating allure on display in a rich yet satisfyingly bright performance – less exuberant but more serious than the corresponding Chiroubles – that will doubtless be worth revisiting for at least the next 3-4 years. It’s clear by now that Daniel Bouland is one of Beaujolais’s major as well as most consistent talents, and it is encouraging to be witnessing the expansion of his domaine (now ten hectares). Most of Bouland’s vines are old, and his young parcels have been planted with selections massales from old vineyards. All of the 2009 cuvees – based on fruit not harvested before late in the first week in September and displaying deep, healthy color – came in at just over 14% alcohol, but none showed ill-effects. A couple of lots of Morgon were so late to go through malo that they were still gaseous when I visited in April, but Bouland’s four cuvees destined for the U.S. had just been bottled, from which they also appeared not to have suffered.Importer: Weygandt-Metzler, Unionville, PA; tel. (610) 486-0800

From a parcel he recently acquired just above the core vineyard of Chateau Thivin, Bouland’s 2008 Cote de Brouilly Cuvee Melanie features fresh blueberry and elderberry tinged with smoke, black pepper, and wet stone. An unmistakable reflection of this cru with its steep, blue schistic stone slopes, this palate-coating, lip-smacking Gamay is also sure to reflect its terroir’s tendency toward a wine that will be even better after a year in bottle, and should be worth following for at least 4-5. This year, not just one wine but an entire family of Daniel Bouland’s as yet still little-known wines is coming to the U.S., and they should not be missed!Importer: Weygandt-Metzler, Unionville, PA; tel. (610) 486-0800