2010 年份的 Gevrey-Chambertin Clos St. Jacques 深厚圓熟，強(qiáng)勁濃郁。單寧強(qiáng)勁，與濃烈的果香十分匹配。如果在酒杯中放置足夠的時(shí)間，還會(huì)發(fā)展出極具表現(xiàn)力的薄荷醇和香料的味道，極大地增加了酒的復(fù)雜度和莊重感。余味中果香尤為突出。Clos St. Jacques 前景極好。是一款非常不錯(cuò)的好酒。預(yù)期成熟時(shí)間：2020 至 2030 年。

Smoky, resinous, bitter-sweet herbal, as well as blue and black fruits scent the Clair 2006 Gevrey-Chambertin Clos St.-Jacques, which then comes to the fine-grained, buoyant palate loaded with luscious, ripe purple plum, blueberry, and blackberry; exotic (orchid-like?) inner-mouth floral perfume; and myriad hard-to-describe intimations of things mineral. The dynamic of flavors here is extraordinarily persistent, and the longer it was open to the air, the more impressive the wine became. I would plan to follow this for at least a dozen years. Bruno Clair and cellar master Philippe Brun have a battery of 1,500 liter upright fermentation casks as well as larger ovals, which permit more wines to depart small barrels sooner but not have to go into tanks. And in 2006 (or for that matter 2007), they concurred that preservation of fruit and preventing the wood from drying it out were paramount considerations. (In fact, the Marsannay cuvees were still not yet bottled when I last tasted them in the Spring of 2008.) Picking here, by the way, lasted from September 23 through October 4, and the results certainly speak emphatically for themselves.Importer: Vineyard Brands, Birmingham, AL; tel. (205) 980-8802

This wine is spectacular. It displays a profound nose of ripe dark fruits, earth, and touches of wild mushrooms. On the palate, this masculine, powerful, highly-extracted, and complex wine is thickly-textured, massively-concentrated, full-bodied, and jam-packed with seductively sweet blackberries and cassis. Projected maturity: 2004-2010. Bravo!Clair invited me to re-taste this wine and I am pleased to report that his opposition to fining and filtering combined with his gentle touch at bottling produced a gorgeous wine that fulfilled all of my original expectations (first described in Issue # 111).Importer: Vineyard Brands, Birmingham, AL; tel (205) 980-8802.

For one of the more enthusiastically run Burgundy domaines, Bruno Clair's 1991s are a major disappointment. They lack color, concentration, and richness, and are dominated by excessively high tannins that make all these wines, save for the soft, light-bodied 1991 Marsannay-Les Longeroies, hollow, harsh, tough, and devoid of charm and finesse. One can only speculate on how the 1991 harvest was handled by Bruno Clair, but he is far more talented and conscientious than these wines suggest. Even allowing for the fact that they may have been tasted at an ungraceful period of development, their light ruby colors and the severity of their tannins are unfortunate. Importer: Hand Picked Selections, Dan Kravitz, Warrenton, VA.