The 2021 Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru has also turned out very well, mingling notes of sweet red berries and cherries with hints of rose petals and orange zest. Medium to full-bodied, ample and layered, it's pure and precise, with a bright spine of acidity and a more tensile, mineral profile than the richer, fleshier Clos de Bèze.

The 2016 Bonnes Mares Grand Cru has a very stern bouquet, quite distant at first, then gradually almost reluctantly unfurling with sea-influenced black fruit, hints of brine and oyster shell in the background. The palate is medium-bodied with fine-boded tannin, foursquare for a Bonnes Mares, eschewing flamboyance for something more noble. This is certainly a more Morey-inspired Bonnes Mares than Chambolle, but nevertheless is a very fine wine of considerable breeding.

The 2015 Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru is more expressive on the nose compared to the Clos-de-Beze, as you would expect, with detailed blueberry and blackberry aromas, a light peaty scent all with fine delineation. The palate is very well balanced with crisp black fruit, blood orange and savory/meaty notes underneath. There is good energy on display here and it will need 4-5 years to fully assimilate the new oak on the finish. Very fine.

The 2014 Bonnes Mares Grand Cru has a tightly wound, stony and rather stoic bouquet at first, one that demands patience. This is not as immediate as its peers. Eventually there are subtle rose petal notes, orange zest and cold granite aromas that unfurl, giving a fleeting glimpse -- a premonition of what is to come. The palate is medium-bodied with saturated tannin, touches of orange rind infusing the blackberry and blueberry fruit, controlled and quite structured towards the finish that has great nervosité. Alongside the Clos Saint-Jacques this is Bruno Clair's best 2014.

Tasted blind at the Burgfest tasting in Beaune, the 2013 Bonnes Mares Grand Cru was showing some rather conspicuous new oak on the nose, though there is sufficient fruit underneath to soak that up. It just needs to develop more presence. The palate is medium-bodied with sappy red berry fruit, fine tannin, a pinch of black pepper on the tip of the tongue with good heft behind it. What it lacks is killer precision on the finish, all the same, I admire the boldness of this Bonnes-Mares and that is often what I seek from this vineyard. Tasted September 2016.