The 2009 Bourgogne is a super elegant, classy wine layered with white peaches and spices. Sweet floral notes develop in the glass, adding volume and brightness. This is a terrific wine in its category. Anticipated maturity: 2011+. Is there anything Bruno Clair doesn’t do well? Clair is best known for his sublime reds among Burgundy aficionados, but his whites (and the Marsannay rose) are equally deserving of attention.A Becky Wasserman Selection, Le Serbet, various American importers, including: Martin Scott Wines, Little Neck, NY; tel. (516) 327-0808, Fine Vines, MelRose Park, IL; tel. (708) 343-6702, The Source, San Francisco, CA; tel. (415) 621-6151