A fine effort, the 2019 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Vergers wafts from the glass with scents of citrus zest, green apple, mint and nutmeg. Medium to full-bodied, fleshy and vibrant, with a rich core of fruit, lively acids and a saline finish, it's often a bottling that does well in riper vintages.

This climat is typically one of the more incisive wines in the Ramonet range, but the 2017 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Vergers is in fact unusually rich. Offering up notes of citrus oil, ripe peaches, honeycomb and almond paste, it's medium to full-bodied, broad and textural, with lively acids but considerable flesh on its structural bones.

The 2015 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Vergers reveals a beautifully defined bouquet of citrus oil, lime, toasted nuts and fresh mint—the prelude to a medium-full, glossy wine with tensile acids, excellent depth and dimension and a long, precise finish. The Vergers often has one of the cooler profiles of the Ramonet's Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Crus, and that characteristic has served it well in the warm 2015 vintage.

The 2014 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Vergers reveals a complex bouquet of pear, white peach, hazelnut and wet stones. On the palate, the wine is taut and precise, with lovely energy and sap underpinning its glossy, supple attack. This was tasted side by side with the 2015 rendition, and the contrast was interesting: while Ramonet's higher appellation 2015s have nice energy and freshness, the wines lead with their generous textures; with the 2014s, the order of appearance is reversed.

Ramonet's 2012 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Vergers is one of the highlights of their range in what is a rather open-knit vintage for the domaine, the tension of the site tempering the year's tendency to corpulence. An expressive and quite dramatic nose of buttery orchard fruit, pastry cream and a framing of smoky new oak leads into a full-bodied, penetrating and glossily textural wine with bright acids and quite an open, generous core of fruit. This is drinking very well now, and it's probably not a vintage to cellar for the long haul.