Ramonet's 2012 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Vergers is one of the highlights of their range in what is a rather open-knit vintage for the domaine, the tension of the site tempering the year's tendency to corpulence. An expressive and quite dramatic nose of buttery orchard fruit, pastry cream and a framing of smoky new oak leads into a full-bodied, penetrating and glossily textural wine with bright acids and quite an open, generous core of fruit. This is drinking very well now, and it's probably not a vintage to cellar for the long haul.