Bursin’s 2007 Riesling Dirstenberg (whose vineyard of origin was simply not mentioned on the labels of previous vintages) emphasizes citrus oil and herbal pungency in a manner that recalls the corresponding Muscat, and here too, there is a certain sense of austerity and of briskness with impressive grip but not enormously juicy or salvia-inducing follow-through. I would be inclined to utilize this over the next 3-4 years. Agathe Bursin – for more about whom consult issue 175 – is one of Alsace’s major emerging talents, as witness her surprisingly fine showing in the difficult 2006 vintage. Bursin’s 2007 vintage Rieslings are comparatively firm, though they may well blossom short-term, and as usual she has scored impressive results with Gewurztraminer.A Thomas Calder Selection (various importers), Paris; fax 011-33-1-46-45-15-29
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