The Barmes-Buecher 2005 Gewurztraminer Hengst delivers on the promise of that site with smoky, chalky notes from the tip of the nose to the end of a long tail. Cinnamon, curry powder, rose petals, marjoram, and black pepper are a few of the other characters that appear in this impressively rich, voluminous, show. The affable Francois Barmes vocally advocates biodynamic viticulture and earlier harvesting to achieve balanced wines of juicy fruit and digestabilite. That said, more than a few of those I tasted were big-bodied to say the least, and certain of them could not handle their alcohol.Importer: Sussex Wine Merchants, Moorestown, NJ; tel. (856) 608 9644; also, a Thomas Calder Selection (various importers), Paris; fax 011-33-1-46-45-15-29.

A bitter-sweet resin, herbal extract, and smoked meat nose on the Barmes 2004 Gewurztraminer Hengst segues into an overtly chalky, rather big-boned as well as big-bodied palate, and a finish of considerable power, striking chalkiness, and – despite a hit of heat – plenty of sappy stamina.The affable Francois Barmes vocally advocates biodynamic viticulture and earlier harvesting to achieve balanced wines of juicy fruit and digestabilite. That said, more than a few of those I tasted were big-bodied to say the least, and certain of them could not handle their alcohol.Importer: Sussex Wine Merchants, Moorestown, NJ; tel. (856) 608 9644; also, a Thomas Calder Selection (various importers), Paris; fax 011-33-1-46-45-15-29.