Including fruit from prime lieu-dit En Buland, the 2020 Pouilly-Fuissé Secret Minéral has turned out beautifully, mingling aromas of crisp yellow orchard fruit and citrus zest with notions of freshly baked bread, nutmeg and white flowers in an inviting bouquet. Medium to full-bodied, ample and incisive, it's seamless and elegant, with racy acids and a bright, saline finish.

The 2019 Pouilly-Fuissé Secret Minéral has turned out brilliantly, wafting from the glass with notes of crisp orchard fruit, peach, white flowers and buttery pastry. Medium to full-bodied, enveloping and precise, with a concentrated core of fruit, racy acids and a long, mouthwatering finish, it's as pure and elegant as followers of this cuvée will have come to expect.

The 2018 Pouilly-Fuissé Secret Minéral has turned out beautifully, opening in the glass with a pretty bouquet of pear, vine blossom, mandarin orange and fresh pastry. Medium to full-bodied, satiny and pure, it's beautifully seamless and precise, with a lively spine of acidity and a long, elegantly sapid finish. More supple and immediate than either the 2017 or 2016, the 2018 will drink immensely well out of the gates.

A worthy follow-up to the terrific 2016, Jeandeau's 2017 Pouilly-Fuissé Secret Minéral unfurls in the glass with notes of fresh peach, white flowers, citrus oil, mandarin and warm pastry. On the palate, it's medium to full-bodied, satiny and elegant, with a fleshy core, racy acids and a long, precise finish. This is a little more giving and extroverted than the tensile 2016, but it's just as fine.

The superb 2016 Pouilly-Fuissé Secret Minéral unfurls in the glass with aromas of lemon oil, crushed chalk, crisp white peach and honeycomb. On the palate, it's medium to full-bodied, elegantly textural and multidimensional, with compelling completeness and sapidity, concluding with a long, intense finish. Such a high-wire combination of concentration with tension and cut is unusual in the Maconnais, where power often comes with richness and heaviness. It's an excellent wine that's well worth seeking out.