Dehlinger 'Claret', Russian River Valley, USA

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The 2010 Claret is quite different from previous vintages in that it includes 30% Syrah Goldridge, which gives the wine a sense of structure and tannin that is a bit unusual for this bottling. Racy and dark in its introspection, the 2010 is likely to require a few a good years in bottle before it starts showing well. Olives, black cherries, sage, rosemary and licorice are all woven into the finish. Anticipated maturity: 2015-2025. Tom and Eva Dehlinger's wines stand out for many reasons, including their very fair prices. This year I thought the Syrahs were particularly of note. Yields have been down in the last few years because of a conversion back to cane pruning, but with 2011 yields are up to a bit higher than normal. The Dehlinger wines are beautiful, full of character and richly deserving of a broader audience. Tel. (707) 823-2378

Dehlinger's 2009 Claret is surprisingly rich and bombastic. Dark black fruit, savory grilled herbs, graphite, menthol and licorice all jump from the glass. Though very much an extrovert, the 2009 possesses fabulous balance and plenty of harmony. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2024. Tom and Eva Dehlinger's wines stand out for many reasons, including their very fair prices. This year I thought the Syrahs were particularly of note. Yields have been down in the last few years because of a conversion back to cane pruning, but with 2011 yields are up to a bit higher than normal. The Dehlinger wines are beautiful, full of character and richly deserving of a broader audience. Tel. (707) 823-2378

The 2008 Claret (100% Cabernet Sauvignon) is a gorgeous wine. Blackberries, cassis, graphite, spices and menthol are some of the nuances that emerge from the glass. The wine shows terrific intensity all the way through to the finish. The tannins could use another year to soften, but this is nevertheless an impressive showing. In 2008 the Claret includes fruit from one of the estate's oldest parcels, originally planted in 1975. According to Tom Dehlinger, during blending trials this juice didn't seem to fit in with the Estate Cabernet, so it was used for the Claret. I am not sure if its inclusion is the reason why, but the Claret is absolutely gorgeous in 2008. This is a beautiful wine for the money and easily one of the top values in California Cabernet Sauvignon. Anticipated maturity: 2012 - 2018. Tel. (707) 823-2378; Fax (707) 823-0918

For example, the 2007 Claret, a steal at $35, is outstanding. This dense purple-colored, elegant effort exhibits plenty of black currant fruit, licorice and cedar in an evolved, fresh yet fruity, medium to full-bodied style with ripe tannins. Drink it over the next 8-10 years although I suspect it will last even longer. The ever reliable Tom Dehlinger continues to turn out some of the most fairly priced wine in all of California. I’m glad to see he has added a tiny quantity of rose to his portfolio. As he said, it is his first “non estate” wine in 25 years. Dehlinger’s Pinot Noirs have an enviable track record of aging well for at least a decade even in challenging vintages. One does not generally think of the Russian River area as prime Cabernet Sauvignon territory, but in certain vintages, Dehlinger’s Cabernets can be amazing. Moreover, they sell for about 50% less than comparable Cabernets from Napa Valley. Tel. (707) 823-2378; Fax (707) 823-0918

Made from 100% Cabernet Sauvignon, the 2006 Claret is lean, angular, and reveals a Bordeaux-like austerity. Dark cherry and dusty, earthy notes as well as a spicy finish are found in this medium-bodied red. Tom Dehlinger is “consistently consistent,” and his wines are always a delight to taste. When you combine that with fair pricing and remarkable humility, this estate merits (and receives) strong support from wine consumers. Dehlinger’s 2007 Pinot Noirs may be the finest he has produced since the mid-nineties (his 1994s are still holding on to life). In his quiet manner, Tom Dehlinger continues to turn out very fine Syrahs, and deserves credit for being one of the pioneers with Rhone Ranger varietals. Tel. (707) 823-2378; Fax (707) 823-0918