The 2008 Yarra Valley Reserve Release Pinot Noir has a pale ruby color with a hint of orange and expressive notes of warm raspberries and strawberry preserves with nuances of dried Mediterranean herbs, mocha and cinnamon stick. Light to medium bodied with a backbone of very high acid and medium level grainy tannins, it has just enough berry flavor and a long finish. Drinking nicely now, it should remain good through 2014. Importer: De Bortoli Wines USA Inc, Tel: + 1 201 714 9700; www.debortoli.com.au.

The 2007 Pinot Noir Reserve Release is dark ruby-colored with an aromatic array of balsam wood, spice box, mineral, black cherry, and black raspberry. Elegant, savory, and intense on the palate, it will evolve for several years and offer prime drinking from 2010 to 2017. De Bortoli produces a substantial amount of wine (it has four winemaking facilities) but under the leadership of manager/winemaker Stephen Webber this has not been a deterrent to high quality. Eight value wines were reviewed in Issue 178 and merit serious interest. The main winery facility which I visited in September 2008 is located in the cooler climate Yarra Valley where the focus is on Chardonnay and Pinot Noir.Importer: De Bortoli Wines USA, Hoboken, NJ; tel. (201) 714-9700