If you can open the faux-wax capsule — no easy task! — you’ll find a lovely wine. Drinks dry, supple and light-bodied, like a fine Pinot, with black cherry, earth, tobacco and dried herb flavors that are balanced with crisp acids. Bone dry, it’s a delicate but assertive wine. It’s hard to imagine a more versatile red to have with everything from roast lamb to pizza. ——S.H.(9/1/2003)—— 90