Lots to like in this complex red Bordeaux blend. Shows bigtime fruit flavors of blackberries, cherries, raspberries and cocoa, with a rich edge of smoky oak, wrapped into smooth, fine tannins in the modern Napa style. Finishes a bit obvious and sweet. Could develop bottle complexity over the next decade.——S.H.(12/31/2009)—— 91

Most of the grapes come from Yountville, a coolish Napa region. Buried below the tannins are enormously ripe blackberries, cherries and red currants. The wine is impeccably balanced. The tannins will cut through a good steak now, but you can age this Cab through the decade. ——S.H.(12/31/2005)—— 92

The 2001 M. Coz is composed of 70% Cabernet Sauvignon, 18% Merlot and 12% Cabernet Franc. It, too, reveals copious oak along with a somewhat desiccated mouthfeel because of over-extraction and the bitter tannins. There is also a heavy overlay of wood that is still not integrated at age ten. This spicy, oaky, astringent wine is big and chewy, but lacks charm. It is likely to become more out of balance as it ages.The major issues I have with all four of these wines is their overwhelming oakiness and borderline over-extraction. “Over-extraction” is one of the buzz words on wine blogs, but rarely does one actually see it. Many seem to ignorantly or intentionally confuse it with extremely concentrated wines. There is no charm to over-extracted wines, as they are pinched and narrow, with excessive as well as astringent, bitter tannins.Tel. (707) 921-2809

This fabulous wine stuns in every respect. It’s sweet in black currant, plum, mocha and oak flavors, yet retains a balanced dryness. A stiff backbone of acidity provides life and zest, but the intricate tapestry of tannins has a soft, aged feel. Voluptuous in the mouth; will age and likely improve beyond 2010.——S.H.(10/1/2004)—— 95