Looks fierce, with a dark, brooding quality, but is surprisingly open in its youth. Oak dominates the aromas, which include well-ripened blackberry and a meaty, earthy note from Merlot and Cabernet Franc. Very supple in the mouth, with juicy flavors and a drink-me-now appeal, but the telltale dust of tannins in the finish indicates ageability. ——S.H.(11/15/2002)—— 92