Without showing the richness of prior vintages, this year’s bottling is earthy and crisp and very dry. It has a steely minerality and modest fruit that suggests green apples and pineapples. ——S.H.(7/1/2006)—— 85

Ripe in peaches, pineapples, creme brulee, buttered toast, vanilla, and other big Chard notes, with a super-creamy texture. Finishes a bit hot and peppery. ——S.H.(8/1/2005)—— 88

Almost overripe, almost too alcoholic, almost overextracted, and flirts with being too oaky, but not quite, all of which makes this a big, fat Chardonnay that tests the limits. Nothing subtle about the blast of flavors and huge mouthfeel. As rich as it is, try with lobster and drawn butter. ——S.H.(8/1/2004)—— 90

Size matters in this massively structured, hugely fruity wine, with oak to match. The fruits are tropical, with the deeply spicy, intense flavors of mango, guava, and pineapple. Lees complexes but doesn't overwhelm, while the well-charred oak frames it all in toast, vanilla and sweet tannins. It demands big, fancy foods.——S.H.(12/31/2001)—— 93