Size matters in this massively structured, hugely fruity wine, with oak to match. The fruits are tropical, with the deeply spicy, intense flavors of mango, guava, and pineapple. Lees complexes but doesn't overwhelm, while the well-charred oak frames it all in toast, vanilla and sweet tannins. It demands big, fancy foods.——S.H.(12/31/2001)—— 93