The 2008 TOURIGA NACIONAL is quite attractive, focused and intense, with a touch of vanilla, but good fruit and aromatics and lovely structure. Of the monovarietal wines reviewed this issue from Cortes de Cima, this is easily the pick of the litter, although a bit pricey, which may be related to the fact that it is in short supply. It also seems a cut above the others, though, and of them all, this one might actually keep improving in the cellar while the others will not hold long at peak. Intense on the finish and with an obvious backbone, it shows an elegant mid-palate followed by some punch and power. It is not particularly complex. Its structure does serve it in good stead, though. I was startled to note that a few hours later it was showing more steel underneath the debonair exterior. This can certainly be a pleasure to drink and should drink beautifully for the next several years. Alentejo is not Portugal’s go-to region for Touriga Nacional, but increasingly Cortes de Cima is making some pretty nice wine here. There were 260 cases produced. Drink now-2019. Importers: Tri-Vin Imports, Mt. Vernon, NY; tel. (914) 664-3155; Vinos Unico, San Francisco, CA; tel. (415) 531-3419; Vinum Wine Importers, Seattle, WA; tel: (206) 621-8843.

Such a stylish wine, with its elegant perfumed fruit, fine tannins, acidity, blackberry flavors and a firm structure. This is a wine that could age, although it is certainly ready to drink. ——R.V.(8/1/2011)—— 91

The 2007 TOURIGA NACIONAL was aged for 8 months in a mixture of French (80%) and American oak. Not yet released, it should debut in the marketplace roughly in the Spring of 2011. Elegant in the mid-palate and quite precise, this Touriga Nacional is earthy on first impression, but shows quite a bit of oak thereafter. It is a remarkably graceful wine, while showing some power on the finish. Juicy and easy to drink after aeration at least, it is a lot of fun and has enough structure to be serious wine, but it does come with a significant price tag. There were 5,205 bottles produced. Drink now-2017. Importers: Tri-Vin Imports, Mt. Vernon, NY; tel. (914) 664-3155; Vinos Unico, San Francisco, CA; tel. (415) 531-3419; Vinum Wine Importers, Seattle, WA; tel: (206) 621-8843.

This is a big wine, going on sweet and superripe. It is almost heavy, the acidity a necessary foil to the dense matter here. Sweet and perfumed berry fruits are dominant along with spice from new wood.——R.V.(8/1/2010)—— 88

The 2005 TOURIGA NACIONAL is a very nice presentation of a Southern Portuguese Touriga Nacional. Aromatic and sweet, with nuances of blueberries and vanilla, this is quite delicious. As it airs out, it shows more and more Touriga and less oak, and proves it can be lively and sunny as well. There are some of those sweet ‘n’ sour plum nuances, but it is mostly sweet. There is a lot of up front fruit here. Tannins pop out on the finish, and provide considerable grip. Despite the power and the forward fruit, it is quite elegant, too. The heavy bottle declares this winery’s intent to do something more and different with this single varietal bottling, and they seem to have succeeded. The regular Syrah is overshadowed by the Incognito, and the Aragonez is in the middle. Elegant, flavorful and ageworthy, this is beautifully constructed and probably the best single varietal denominated wine I have yet had from Cortes de Cima. When it finally opened, it seemed like essence of Touriga Nacional. Drink 2009-2015. This winery, owned by Danish-born Hans Jorgensen and his American wife (of Portuguese ancestry), Carrie, is one of Alentejo’s stalwarts. They generally make them bold and big, although there seems to be a trend to more restraint. The first release was in 1996. Their best wine is the Reserva, generally speaking. A vertical tasting of the Reservas, including the release reviewed last year (the 2003, 92 points) showed what the winery can accomplish. These library wines may be hard to find in well stored condition, even at the winery, but they are worth noting here to show what this winery can do and how well these can age. Their wines eschew the DOC Alentejo (after having had some famous dust-ups with the DOC regulations), and use instead the broader, less restrictive classification Vinho Regional Alentejano.Importers: Tri-Vin Imports, Mt. Vernon, NY; tel. (914) 664-3155; Bibulous, San Francisco, CA; tel: (415) 378-0661; Vinum Wine Importers, Seattle, WA; tel: (206) 621-8843.