Smack in the middle of its drinking window, the 2007 Recioto della Valpolicella Classico is a brawny and muscular dessert wine with vinous aromas of raisin, prune and dried fig backed by baking spice and cinnamon stick. Touches of toasted almond or walnut also appear. In the mouth, it shows some tight astringency backed by long, chewy sweetness. Drink 2013-2020. Corteforte is a beautiful castle built in the 1400s with crenulated watchtowers that soar above Pergola-trained vines. It’s a tiny, boutique estate run by Carlo Maria Cerutti who farms a mere three hectares of vine. As they say, “good things come in small packages,” and Corteforte has delivered quite a few gems this year. Importer: The Wine Company, www.thewinecompany.net

The 1999 Recioto della Valpolicella offers a sweet but somewhat unfocused nose, flavors of plum jam and chocolate, and good, if not superior density and sweetness. Drink: 2004-2008. Importer: The Wine Co., St. Paul, MN; tel. (651) 487-1212