Christophe Cordier had just bottled the sumptuous 2003 Pouilly-Fuisse Juliette La Grande when I visited the estate in mid-April, 2006. Boasting 15.6% alcohol (completely unnoticeable) and 4.5 grams of residual sugar, this decadent delight reveals a nose reminiscent of the aromas found in a Middle East nation’s spice market. On the palate, this lush offering displays superb breadth, wonderful intensity, and massive concentration. Its oily-textured flavor profile, best described as buttered ginger cookies immersed in spices, lingers over 30 seconds in the finish... Wow! Drink this gem over the next 10 years.“This was a difficult vintage, no doubt,” said Christophe Cordier, “We never stopped working for an instant.” He went on to add that even though the July 20 hail storm devastated some of his best parcels (there is no Pouilly-Fuisse Metertiere in 2004, for example), “We were still luckier than our friends in the Cote de Beaune because here in the south we actually got some sun and warmth at times.” Cordier did two harvests in his Pouilly-Fuisse vineyards, declassifying the first fruit that was picked to make a Macon-Fuisse and only using the results of his second, later harvests for his Pouilly-Fuisses. In addition, Cordier sorted through all the clusters, throwing out all the ones damaged by hail or oidium.(Not yet released)Various American importers including Weygandt-Metzler, Peter Weygandt, Unionville, PA; tel. (610) 486-0800

The 1998 Pouilly-Fuisse Juliette la Grande was harvested at 15% natural potential alcohol and was fermented totally dry. Its aromatics bring to mind the nose of a great Vouvray. Quince, nuts, candied lemons, and white flowers burst from the glass. Full-bodied and full-flavored, this wine detonates on the palate with sweetened herbal tea, mineral, and spiced pear flavors. It is deep, rich, fat, yet crisp and exquisitely balanced. While this boisterous wine is atypical of its appellation, it is immensely impressive. Readers should note that this wine will be at its best if it accompanies highly expressive dishes. (For example, it is a great match for butter and garlic-laden frog legs.) My inclination would be to suggest drinking this beauty in the near-term; however, its copious quantities of concentrated fruit and zesty acidity may well allow it to age gracefully. Drink it over the next 5+ years.Importer: Weygandt-Metzler, Peter Weygandt, Unionville, PA; tel. (610) 486-0800.

Cordier is now releasing a wine from the 1997 vintage that was produced from late-harvested, heavily botrytised (70%) fruit. It is named after his daughter. The 1997 Pouilly-Fuisse Juliette La Grande displays pineapple and assorted tropical fruits laden with loads of botrytis. This full-bodied, muscular, yet fresh and opulent wine is reminiscent of a bourbon pound cake dusted with minerals and tons of spices. It is not, in any way, a typical Pouilly-Fuisse, Maconnais, or Burgundy, given its late harvest character. This wine would be best if paired with spicy Asian cuisine. Drink it over the next 6-8 years.Importer: Peter Weygandt, Weygandt-Metzler, Unionville, PA; tel (610) 486-0800.

A year ago, when I first visited the estate, Christophe Cordier served me the components of the 1996 Pouilly-Fuisse Juliette La Grande, named after his young daughter. Crafted from over-ripe, late harvested grapes, this is an atypical Pouilly-Fuisse, hence the asterisk (*) next to its score. "I know it is a great wine," said Cordier, "but what is its purpose and what dishes will it go with? I just don't know." Its aromas are reminiscent of an older semi-sweet Chenin Blanc from the Loire, with roasted nuts, chocolate milk, sweetened tea, and quince notes. It is a superbly concentrated, massively powerful, medium-to-full-bodied, and intense wine with liquid mineral, spiced pear, and apple compote flavors. Its high alcohol gives it a warm, almost spirit-like finish that may well be absorbed by the abundant fruit in time. My inclination is that this outstanding wine will work wonders with pungent cheeses and spicy Asian dishes. Readers should approach it the way they would a first rate Alsatian Vendange Tardive. Drink it over the next 10+ years.Importer: Peter Weygandt, Weygandt-Metzler, Unionville, PA; tel (610) 486-0800.