Domaine Cordier Pere et Fils Pouilly-Fuisse Juliette la Grande, Maconnais, France

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A year ago, when I first visited the estate, Christophe Cordier served me the components of the 1996 Pouilly-Fuisse Juliette La Grande, named after his young daughter. Crafted from over-ripe, late harvested grapes, this is an atypical Pouilly-Fuisse, hence the asterisk (*) next to its score. "I know it is a great wine," said Cordier, "but what is its purpose and what dishes will it go with? I just don't know." Its aromas are reminiscent of an older semi-sweet Chenin Blanc from the Loire, with roasted nuts, chocolate milk, sweetened tea, and quince notes. It is a superbly concentrated, massively powerful, medium-to-full-bodied, and intense wine with liquid mineral, spiced pear, and apple compote flavors. Its high alcohol gives it a warm, almost spirit-like finish that may well be absorbed by the abundant fruit in time. My inclination is that this outstanding wine will work wonders with pungent cheeses and spicy Asian dishes. Readers should approach it the way they would a first rate Alsatian Vendange Tardive. Drink it over the next 10+ years.Importer: Peter Weygandt, Weygandt-Metzler, Unionville, PA; tel (610) 486-0800.