The vast region of La Mancha is on the prowl in the 21st century, and wines like this won’t hurt the region’s improving reputation. The nose here is fresh and loaded with berry sweetness and accents of cinnamon and forest floor. The palate is round and chewy, with plum and berry flavors. It’s richer than many so-called alta expresion wines, and the structure goes way beyond that of most under-$10 reds. With some airing and good food, it’s a certain winner.——M.S.(8/1/2003)—— 88