This single-vineyard bottling from Columbia spent 10 months in French oak barrels. Some of the vines have reached 30 years of age. The wine is subtle and aromatic; the barrel toast weaves sinuously around scents of grain, apple and green berry, with tantalizing hints of honeysuckle and vanilla. Elegant, racy and stylish.——P.G.(12/1/2008)—— 90

I found only two wines that I could recommend. The 2004 Chardonnay “Wyckoff Vineyard” was barrel-fermented and underwent full malolactic. The nose offers smoky oak as well as pear and green apple aromas. This is followed by a crisp, Chablis-like wine with good acidity and lingering ripe flavors. This well-made should Chardonnay should drink well for another 1-2 years. Tel. (425) 488-2776; www.columbiawinery.com

Tropical fruit flavors of pineapple, banana and melon initiate this young, nicely focused, rather toasty/buttery effort. Some of the vines are almost 30 years old. Though not as over-the-top with the new oak as some past vintages, the ’03 will benefit from further bottle time and may well have the complexity and the composition to age nicely for six to eight years. ——P.G.(12/15/2005)—— 89

Butterscotch, vanilla and spicy anise light up this Burgundian-style chardonnay. Its not-too-ripe fruit flavors of melon and citrus keep it crisp and well-defined, and winemaker David Lake has added just the right amount of toasty new oak.——P.G.(4/1/2005)—— 90

A severe, tart wine, its green apple/lemon fruit offset with sharp accents of oak and vanilla. Decanting would be helpful, or set it aside for another 4-5 years bottle age.——P.G.(9/1/2004)—— 87