Tropical fruit flavors of pineapple, banana and melon initiate this young, nicely focused, rather toasty/buttery effort. Some of the vines are almost 30 years old. Though not as over-the-top with the new oak as some past vintages, the ’03 will benefit from further bottle time and may well have the complexity and the composition to age nicely for six to eight years. ——P.G.(12/15/2005)—— 89