The 2012 Cotes du Rhone Montueil la Levade is a beauty. A tank-aged blend of mostly Grenache, it offers up notions of pepper, dried rosemary and both red and black fruits, with background meatiness, to go with a medium-bodied, supple and nicely textured profile on the palate. Fresh and lively, with good acidity, it’s a rock-solid Cotes du Rhone to drink over the coming 3-4 years. Drink now-2018. One of my favorite estates and a bastion of traditionally made, age-worthy wines, Clos du Mont-Olivet has been run by the Sabon family since 1932. Thierry Sabon, who studied physics before working at the estate, has made the wines since 2001. In top vintages, they produce three red Chateauneufs, a fruit-forward Petit Mont (meaning small hill), a classic traditional blend, and their top cuvee, the Cuvee du Papet. On top of this, they release a number of character-filled Cotes du Rhones. This is an estate that is at the top of their game. Various American importers including Michael Skurnik, Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300; David Hinkle, North Berkeley Imports, Berkeley, CA; tel. (510) 848-8910; Dionysus Imports, Manassas, VA; tel. (703) 392-7073; Ideal Wines and Spirits, Medford, MA; tel. (617) 395-3300; The Wine Company, St. Paul, MN; tel. (651) 487-1212; and Import Wines, Middleton, WI; tel. (608) 833-8622