More Syrah-dominated, the 2011 Cotes du Rhone Varene comes from a single vineyard located north of the town of Bollene, on the border between Vaucluse and Drome. More Northern Rhone in style, with its smoky blackberry, olive, bacon fat and peppery bouquet, this medium-bodied, lightly textured Cotes du Rhone has juicy acidity and plenty of fruit. It’s a solid value and should be enjoyed over the coming 3-5 years. Drink now-2018. One of my favorite estates and a bastion of traditionally made, age-worthy wines, Clos du Mont-Olivet has been run by the Sabon family since 1932. Thierry Sabon, who studied physics before working at the estate, has made the wines since 2001. In top vintages, they produce three red Chateauneufs, a fruit-forward Petit Mont (meaning small hill), a classic traditional blend, and their top cuvee, the Cuvee du Papet. On top of this, they release a number of character-filled Cotes du Rhones. This is an estate that is at the top of their game. Various American importers including Michael Skurnik, Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300; David Hinkle, North Berkeley Imports, Berkeley, CA; tel. (510) 848-8910; Dionysus Imports, Manassas, VA; tel. (703) 392-7073; Ideal Wines and Spirits, Medford, MA; tel. (617) 395-3300; The Wine Company, St. Paul, MN; tel. (651) 487-1212; and Import Wines, Middleton, WI; tel. (608) 833-8622