The 2011 Dolcetto di Diano d’Alba Montagrillo is packed tight with ripe blueberry, blackberry and plush richness in the mouth. Pretty renderings of dried sage or rosemary, crushed mineral and freshly milled peppercorn add dimension at the back. Anticipated maturity: 2013-2016. Seven wines for seven vineyard crus is the mantra carried forth by Claudio Alario. With tips from his friend and mentor Roberto Voerzio, Claudio began bottling his production in 1988 and today counts ten hectares of vineyard planted to site-specific expressions of Dolcetto, Barbara and Nebiolo. His success has, without a doubt, helped to raise awareness and appreciation of Dolcetto Diano d’Alba (the lesser-known Dolcetto subzone). I have reviewed six of those wines here. Importer: Il Pioppo Selection, Dulles, VA; tel. (703) 466-0446

Claudio Alario’s 2007 Dolcetto di Diano d’Alba Montagrillo is a gorgeous, sumptuous wine packed with dark blueberries, graphite, chocolate and spices. It is especially generous and rich on the palate, where the wine reveals superb balance and tons of sheer personality. The Montagrillo is often one of my favorite Dolcettos, as it is again in 2007. Anticipated maturity: 2009-2012. A Marc de Grazia Selection, various American importers, including: de Grazia Imports; tel. (417) 732-4200; Michael Skurnik, Syosset, NY; (516) 677-9300, Estate Wines Ltd., San Rafael CA; (415) 492-9411, Giuliana Imports, Boulder CO; (303) 547-6343, Robert Houde Wines, Bensenville IL; (630) 422-1119

The 2006 Dolcetto di Diano Montagrillo bursts from the glass with tons of super-ripe blackberries, blueberries, cassis, minerals and spices. Made in a no-holds-barred style, this powerful wine will appeal most to readers who appreciate an intense style of Dolcetto. As is usually the case, Montagrillo is one of the finest Dolcettos on the market. Anticipated maturity: 2008-2011. Claudio Alario is a Dolcetto specialist. His wines are never for the timid, something that is especially true in 2006. A Marc de Grazia Selection, various American importers, including Michael Skurnik, Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300, Vin Divino, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 334-6700, and Estate Wines, Ltd., San Rafael, CA; tel. (415) 492-9411