The 2006 Dolcetto di Diano Montagrillo bursts from the glass with tons of super-ripe blackberries, blueberries, cassis, minerals and spices. Made in a no-holds-barred style, this powerful wine will appeal most to readers who appreciate an intense style of Dolcetto. As is usually the case, Montagrillo is one of the finest Dolcettos on the market. Anticipated maturity: 2008-2011. Claudio Alario is a Dolcetto specialist. His wines are never for the timid, something that is especially true in 2006. A Marc de Grazia Selection, various American importers, including Michael Skurnik, Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300, Vin Divino, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 334-6700, and Estate Wines, Ltd., San Rafael, CA; tel. (415) 492-9411