Just like the Montagrillo, the 2011 Dolcetto di Diano d’Alba Costa Fiore is aged solely in stainless steel. This expression shows a thicker texture with hints of cured meat, tobacco and blackberry woven into a slightly broader mouthfeel. Anticipated maturity: 2013-2016. Seven wines for seven vineyard crus is the mantra carried forth by Claudio Alario. With tips from his friend and mentor Roberto Voerzio, Claudio began bottling his production in 1988 and today counts ten hectares of vineyard planted to site-specific expressions of Dolcetto, Barbara and Nebiolo. His success has, without a doubt, helped to raise awareness and appreciation of Dolcetto Diano d’Alba (the lesser-known Dolcetto subzone). I have reviewed six of those wines here. Importer: Il Pioppo Selection, Dulles, VA; tel. (703) 466-0446

The 2007 Dolcetto di Diano d’Alba Costa Fiore is very pretty and fragrant in this vintage. Red raspberries, flowers, spices and tobacco are some of the nuances that emerge from the silky-textured, elegant Costa Fiore. Anticipated maturity: 2009-2013. A Marc de Grazia Selection, various American importers, including: de Grazia Imports; tel. (417) 732-4200; Michael Skurnik, Syosset, NY; (516) 677-9300, Estate Wines Ltd., San Rafael CA; (415) 492-9411, Giuliana Imports, Boulder CO; (303) 547-6343, Robert Houde Wines, Bensenville IL; (630) 422-1119

Diano d’Alba, where Claudio Alario is located, is principally Dolcetto territory and the 2003 Dolcetto Costa Fiore, the best selection of the house, shows just how well this grape does in the area. Richly fruity, very round and silky, lengthy and caressing in texture, it is already a sheer pleasure to drink and will continue to please for several years to come. A Marc de Grazia Selection, various American importers, including Michael Skurnik, Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300, Vin Divino, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 334-6700, and Estate Wines, Ltd., San Rafael, CA; tel. (415) 492-9411