Diano d’Alba, where Claudio Alario is located, is principally Dolcetto territory and the 2003 Dolcetto Costa Fiore, the best selection of the house, shows just how well this grape does in the area. Richly fruity, very round and silky, lengthy and caressing in texture, it is already a sheer pleasure to drink and will continue to please for several years to come. A Marc de Grazia Selection, various American importers, including Michael Skurnik, Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300, Vin Divino, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 334-6700, and Estate Wines, Ltd., San Rafael, CA; tel. (415) 492-9411