The 2012 Saint Joseph Mairlant, which is a barrel aged blend of Roussanne and Marsanne, offers plenty of orchard fruits, bread dough, lemon and tings of brioche to go with a medium-bodied, juicy and lively palate. It too should be enjoyed over the coming 2-3 years. Made by Francois Villard, with varying degrees of whole cluster fermentation, these wines shows the racier, focused and peppery side to Syrah. Bright acids, notable tannin and pure, clean flavors are the norm here. Given the high level of stem usage, the vast majority of these will benefit from short term cellaring. Importer: Elite Wine, Lorton, VA; Tel. (703) 339-8150

I was impressed with the 1999 St.-Joseph Mairlant, a blend of equal parts Marsanne and Roussanne brought up in 30% new French oak. It reveals exotic, honeyed Roussanne characteristics (rose petals, caramel, nuts), some minerality, plenty of glycerin, fine depth, and a rich, chewy finish. It should be consumed during its first 1-3 years of life. Francois Villard is one of the brightest lights emerging from the northern Rhone. Importer: Eric Solomon, European Cellars, Charlotte, NC; tel. (704) 358-1565

The 1997 St.-Joseph Cotes du Mairlant exhibits an orange marmalade/peachy, Condrieu-like nose, medium body, excellent rich fruit, adequate acidity, and a honeyed finish. It should drink well for 2 years. Importer: Eric Solomon, European Cellars, New York, NY; tel. (212) 924-4949

Revealing plenty of oak in the nose, the 1996 St.-Joseph Cotes du Mairlant is a full-bodied, expansive, dry, ripe white wine. The high acidity gives the wine lots of verve. Importer: Eric Solomon, European Cellars, New York, NY; tel. (212) 924-4949